Your tropical hardwood,
costed.

Yes for: (1) Lifetime ownership (40+ years) — IPE outlasts composite (25-30 yrs); composite needs replacement at year 30, IPE doesn't. (2) Authentic wood look — composite mimics wood; IPE IS wood, with grain depth that doesn't repeat across boards. (3) Cooler underfoot — IPE +6°F over PT baseline vs premium composite +15°F. (4) Janka 3680 hardness — virtually scratch-proof from chairs/pets/dropped tools. No for: tight budget, DIY (pre-drilling every fastener is tedious), no maintenance time (silvering happens regardless), or sustainability priority (sourcing concerns even for FSC IPE).

50+ years with proper installation. Field-verified IPE installs from the early 1990s (Atlantic City Boardwalk reconstruction, NYC Hudson River Park) are still in excellent structural condition after 30+ years. IPE's natural decay resistance (AWPA Class 1 — same as PT chemical treatment) + extreme density (specific gravity 0.92) + tannin content makes it inherently rot- and insect-proof. Cumaru and Massaranduba ~45 years. Tigerwood 35 years. Garapa 30 years. Lifespan is functionally limited by substructure (PT joists, ~25-30 yrs) — you'll likely replace framing before the IPE boards.

Both Brazilian tropical hardwoods with similar performance, ~15-20% price gap. IPE: Janka 3680 (slightly harder), olive-brown to dark chocolate color, 50-yr lifespan, $9.50/lf 5/4×6 Select retail. Cumaru: Janka 3540 (~96% as hard), golden-brown to reddish-brown, 45-yr lifespan, $7.95/lf (~17% cheaper). Cumaru has more grain variation board-to-board than IPE's relatively uniform color. Cumaru oxidizes faster (silver within 12-18 months vs IPE 18-24). For Brazilian-hardwood look at lower budget: Cumaru wins. For matching color across large decks: IPE. Both require the same installation (pre-drill, stainless 305).

Surprisingly cool for a dark wood — +6°F over PT baseline on sunny 90°F day. IPE's extreme density (95+ lb/cu-ft, ~25% denser than oak) means high thermal mass — it heats up slowly AND cools down slowly. At noon: IPE ~106°F, premium composite ~110°F, AZEK PVC ~99°F, PT ~100°F. Compared to dark composite (Trex Transcend Spiced Rum ~115°F), IPE runs significantly cooler. The trade-off: IPE retains evening heat longer (sun-up to sunset), while PVC cools faster after sun moves off. For sustained barefoot midday use, IPE outperforms most composites.

Janka 3680 — that's 3-4× harder than PT (Janka 1000), 8× harder than cedar (Janka 350). Standard composite/PT screws require ~30 sec per install (drive directly into board). IPE requires: (1) countersunk pilot hole (~6mm diameter to depth of screw head) using carbide bit, (2) clearance hole (~smaller diameter for shaft) at proper depth, (3) drive stainless screw. ~90 seconds per fastener. Skipping pre-drill: 80%+ chance of board splitting at fastener point, broken bit, or stripped screw. Use carbide-tipped drill bits (replace every 200-300 holes). Some pros use a Camo Edge clip system to face-mount without visible screws — works on IPE but still requires pre-drilling.

Stainless steel 305-grade (305 is standard; 316 marine-grade required within 5 miles of saltwater). NEVER use hot-dipped galvanized — IPE's tannin acids react with zinc, causing black streaks down the board within 6-12 months. Recommended specs: #8 × 2.5″ stainless trim-head screws (Headcote Stainless or Starborn Pro Plug) for face-mount face-screw installs. Hidden fasteners: Tiger Claw HF-IPE (carbide-rated) or Camo Edge clip + Camo screws. Pre-drilling bits: 5/32″ pilot hole + countersink, replaced after every 200-300 holes (carbide tipped only). Stainless joist hangers: Simpson HDG SS for the PT joists below. Budget $2-3 per sqft for stainless fastener + bit costs vs $0.95 for composite.

Optional — depends on whether you want to keep the original color or accept silvering. With yearly oil (Penofin Hardwood, Messmer's UV Plus, or Cabot Australian Timber Oil): wood retains original color (deep brown for IPE, golden for Cumaru, etc) for the life of the deck. ~$0.95/sqft material + 1 weekend per year DIY. Without oil: silvering happens within 18-24 months — soft pewter-gray patina that doesn't affect structural integrity. Many IPE owners prefer the silvered look — it's classic and low-maintenance. Some compromise: oil every 2 years (slows silvering, less work). Decision is purely aesthetic.

FSC IPE exists but is genuinely scarce. Sustainable IPE harvesting requires careful management — trees take 60-100 years to mature. Most IPE is selectively logged in Brazilian Amazon (managed forests, but enforcement varies). FSC-certified mills exist in Bolivia + Brazil but supply 4-8 week lead times + 13% premium. CITES Appendix II listing (since 2022) adds export documentation requirements. More-sustainable alternatives: Cumaru FSC has better availability than IPE FSC. Garapa is plantation-grown in some operations. Massaranduba sustainability scores between IPE and Cumaru. For LEED projects, FSC documentation chain-of-custody is required — confirm with your distributor before ordering. Some reputable suppliers: Advantage Lumber, Mataverde, Edensaw, Iron Woods.

IPE labor runs ~50% higher than composite due to pre-drilling. Composite install: $14-24/sqft. IPE install: $22-38/sqft. For a 192 sqft deck: composite labor ~$3,800, IPE labor ~$5,800 — ~$2,000 premium just for the install time difference. Every fastener takes 90 seconds vs 30 seconds for composite. Add stainless fastener + carbide bit replacement costs (~$0.50/sqft more). For DIY: budget 3× the install time of a PT deck. First-time IPE DIYers usually run 4-5× the contractor estimate — patience is the limiting resource.